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Castan Centre Interns

Chris Holt - South Africa Accommodation and Cost of Living Hints

Chris Holt undertook an internship with the South African Legal Aid Board in Cape Town, South Africa. The current Oxfam Australia internship will take place near Durban, NOT Cape Town. Please use this as a general guide about living and accommodation expenses.

South Africa is undeniably a beautiful and vibrant country and is aptly described as the 'rainbow nation'. However, in spite of its reputation for cultural diversity and remarkable natural attractions, it has become notorious for high rates of violent crime.

Should I take my bullet proof jacket and security team?

No leave them at home (it’s a pain trying to get permits anyway). In South Africa a little bit of common sense goes a long way. Do not walk around with valuables on display (e.g. camera, I-pod and mobile phone hanging round your neck) and pay heed to local advice. I spent three and half wonderful months in South Africa and came home unscathed. People were by and large friendly and happy to help. Do not forget it has only recently emerged from a tumultuous period in its history and you may still experience some hostility; but, keep an open mind and a smile on your face and you will have a fantastic experience.

Accommodation

There is plenty of cheap backpacker accommodation across South Africa, which is handy when you first arrive or decide to take a well-earned weekend trip. Housing was more difficult. Short-term share accommodation took me a little while to find in Cape Town, however the more you are willing to pay the easier it will be. I paid 1000ZAR per month (about $135) for a town house about a 10 minute minibus ride from the city, sharing with two other people from Cape Town. The rent I paid was about as cheap as you will find. It is a good idea to start looking early, but don't commit to anything until you get to South Africa. Gumtree was a very useful website -

Living Costs

Unfortunately the South African economy is showing no signs of improvements. What it does mean is that the Australian dollar goes a long way (1AUD is about 7.5ZAR). If you want to live cheaply you could easily find decent meals for 30 rand or better still grab a delicious pie for about 5 rand. A dorm bed in a backpackers costs anywhere between 70 to 100 rand and private rooms will start at about 130 rand. Most importantly a beer at a bar costs about 10 rand and good local wine is cheap and plentiful.

Public Transport

Public transport in South Africa is improving in the lead up to the World Cup and I'm told it is much safer than it used to be. Needless to say avoid public transport after dark (unless you feel comfortable) and there are certain train lines you will need to stay clear of.

The fastest, cheapest and most enjoyable (c.f. comfortable) way to get around cities in South Africa is on the chapas (or local minibus). A 10 or 15 minute trip works out to be about 50 cents. Chapas don't leave until they are full (or more accurately until everyone is crammed in like sardines), so don't expect first class treatment and the drivers seemed to be trained to ignore every road rule. Aside from being a little hair-raising, it’s a great way to get to know the locals and experience a different side of South Africa. Hold on tight and enjoy the ride.

Trains are useful for longer trips and are also very cheap. Regardless of the improvements to safety in both modes of travel, many South Africans will think you are crazy for using public transport. Just bear in mind many of the people telling you this will not have caught a train or chapas in their life. In saying that, some places in South Africa are more dangerous than others. There have been violent incidents involving chapas drivers from rival companies in Johannesburg for instance. The best method is to follow local advice from people who use the transport system

Budget domestic airlines

  • Mango 
  • 1time
  • Kulula

Buses (within South Africa and to Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Botswana)

  • GreyHound
  • Intercape
  • Baz Bus (offers a hop-on-hop-off service within South Africa only)

Attractions

South Africa has world class national parks with abundant wildlife, such as Kruger National Park, an incredible coastline and you cannot miss Cape Town. There is plenty of information available on the major attractions, but one little gem you should not miss is Bulungula Lodge. This place is probably the most beautiful place I have visited. Bulungula is 40% owned by the local Nqileni village and is an eco-friendly lodge situated on the remote wild coast. You can join in activities were all profits go to the local xhosa community (such as canoeing down the Xhora river or horse riding along the beach) or simply lie in a hammock doing nothing. Getting there is the only problem, so be prepared for a long drive up pot-holed dirt roads (check the website for directions http://www.bulungula.com).